Ivana Stefanović - 5 200 words
Traveling through the night and arriving the next day fully rested and relaxed at your destination has become a perfect solution for anyone who’d rather be lulled to sleep by the rhythmic sounds of train wheels rather than stuck at the airport for hours. Advantages of sleeper train travels are many and organizing your rail holidays can easily be arranged. If I told you that five nights on an overnight train got me to five European cities in only five days, would you be tempted to try it yourself?
I started my journey in Paris, the French capital that many call La Ville-Lumière (The City of Lights). I, on the other hand, call it ‘The City of Sounds’. Have you ever taken some time to explore the sounds of this city?
Cars driving over cobbles, clinking silverware in the restaurants you’re passing, piano music playing inside a café, painters selling their artwork, kids running… Walking in the streets of Montmartre, one of the most charming neighborhoods in Paris, ‘sounds’ just like this. Take time to take in all the sounds as you stroll or sit in a café whilst sipping a glass of French wine.
While in Montmartre, the place so many artists considered their home, I suggest you visit the Dali Museum.
As a museum with the largest private collection of Salvador Dali’s works, you’ll walk into a Dali’s world, which was nothing short of intriguing. Renovated in 2018, this museum has more than 300 artworks on display, including Dali’s bronze sculptures.
After a day of exploration, I worked up my appetite. Since Montmartre is also home to some great restaurants that are not so touristy, I didn’t want to miss an opportunity to dine in this beautiful bohemian neighborhood. An hour later, although I wish I could’ve stayed longer, I was ready to go to the train station.
The Gare de Lyon is one of the main railway stations in Paris, famous for its impressive clock tower, beautiful facade dating back to 1900 and the “Train Bleu” restaurant. So, if you are hungry or just want to grab a snack and a drink as you wait for your departure information to come up, make it part of an experience and dine at the restaurant that was declared a historical monument in 1972.
Make sure you check the departure screens that are all around the station to see a platform number your train is departing from. Since my next destination was Venice, I was looking for the information about a Thello train leaving at 19:15.
The Thello night train from Paris to Milan and Venice is a popular way to reach Italy, so if you want to secure a couchette compartment or a sleeper cabin, consider buying your tickets in advance. Ticket prices will of course depend on the type of accommodation you choose.
There are couchettes with 4 or 6 berths per compartment. Bottled water and bedding are provided, and there are toilets available in each coach. However, for a more comfortable ride consider booking a sleeper compartment. A standard sleeper cabin can accommodate 1 to 3 people and it is equipped with a washbasin, so a towel is provided to all the passengers, as well as a travel kit with toiletries and disposable slippers. Each bed comes with sheets, a pillow and duvet. You’ll be offered a welcome drink, as well as a breakfast in the morning that is included in the price.
For my trip I decided to book a premium sleeper compartment, as getting a good night’s sleep and being rested the next day to go and explore Venice was my priority. For a ride that takes about 14 hours, I knew that I wanted to have a private bathroom just for myself. If you think how much money you’d pay for a hotel room in Paris or Venice, you’ll realize that the comfort of a premium sleeper is worth the price.
After departure, the conductor checked my ticket and collected my passport, which meant that I wouldn’t be bothered throughout the night. Before settling in my compartment for a quiet evening, I decided to go and check the restaurant. I was curious about the menu in the train restaurant and the offer they had at the bar. I used my welcome drink voucher to get some wine and headed back to the sleeper. Remember that if you decide to eat dinner in the restaurant coach, there is an option to book online your seats and avoid waiting.
Back in the compartment, I started getting ready for bed. I stored my suitcase away, and I must say that there is a plenty of room to place your luggage. Taking your bags with you when traveling by train is just so stress-free. No need to think whether your suitcase is too big, whether it weighs more than it’s allowed, or stressing over the check-in and whether your bag will arrive at your destination. As long as you can carry it yourself, you are allowed to take 2 suitcases with you.
The premium sleeper compartment has a private bathroom with a shower, toilet and sink, that I found to be very clean. A travel kit with soap, toothbrush and toothpaste, slippers and a towel were provided. Whether you take a soothing shower before bed or prefer a feeling of refreshed face and body in the morning, having a private bathroom will give you exactly that.
There’s also a power socket if you need to charge your phone or get some work done on your laptop, and if you like to read before going to sleep, know that there is a light next to the bed. The bed comes furnished with sheets, soft duvet and a pillow. I felt quite cozy and safe, since I’d previously locked the door of the compartment. The last thing I remembered were the sounds of Paris, which as I was falling asleep started mixing with the calming sound of the train wheels.
The next morning, I woke up to a beautiful Italian landscape. I was thirsty, and luckily, I still had one bottled water left that was provided in the compartment. Thanks to the premium sleeper being slightly bigger, I had enough room to even stretch a little. But a day couldn’t properly begin without having some coffee first. So, I headed back to the restaurant car to get some breakfast.
The breakfast served on the train was very simple and it included a croissant, juice and coffee. If you prefer to start your day with a light breakfast, then this will be just enough to get you going. However, if starting a day with a more lavish breakfast is more of your thing, maybe you should consider finding a place to eat first when you get off the train in Venice.
Few minutes after the expected arrival time at 9:35, we arrived at the Santa Lucia train station. At the train station there is a left luggage office on platform 1 where you can store your luggage, which you’ll see many tourists do. Considering the fact that Venice is one of the most popular day-trip destinations, it comes as no surprise that you can find a luggage storage easily, either at the train station or through ‘Nannybag’ service that will find you a storage place close to the Santa Lucia.
For me, the biggest charm of the Santa Lucia train station is that it opens onto the Grand Canal. The moment you step outside simply feels as stepping into a different reality. The mixture of different colors, sounds, and people speaking different languages will definitely wake you up and nudge you to get started with your plans for the day.
Although known for all the classical art you can find, Venice proved to be the place that can be placed on the contemporary art map too. In an 18th century palace Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, overlooking the Grand Canal, a great collection of modern artworks can be found in the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. Peggy Guggenheim was a passionate art collector, so the collection features works by some of the greatest artists of the 20th century. Some of the paintings you can find here include Joan Miró’s Seated Woman II and Dalí’s Birth of Liquid Desires. Peggy Guggenheim was also a great supporter of the Italian futurists, so if you wish to know more about contemporary Italian art, the museum is the perfect place to visit.
After treating myself with a nice meal and some Italian coffee and sweets, I headed to Ca' Macana mask shop. When you’re in Venice, it’s impossible not to be fascinated with all the masks you can find. And this place - Ca' Macana is unique because you can sign up for a 2-hour course and learn how to decorate Venetian masks using different techniques. If you’d rather spend that time admiring the hand-made masks by real craftsmen, be sure that here you’ll see some authentic masks decorated even with gold and silver leaves, or Swarovski crystals.
Since the train for Rome, my next destination, was leaving at 22:52 I decided to enjoy in the sunset over Venice at the Skyline Rooftop Bar on Giudecca island. Situated on the 8th floor of the Hilton Molino Stucky Hotel, this place offered stunning views of Venice.
If you add delicious cocktails and relaxing music on top of that, you really get a perfect evening. Soon, you’ll catch yourself planning your next visit to this city.
The shuttle boat offered by the Hilton, even for non-guests to use, took me back to Venice. My day trip was coming to an end, so I started thinking about my next destination. Back at the train station, I collected my suitcase and found the platform where Trenitalia’s overnight train was waiting for its passengers to board. The Santa Lucia train station isn’t that big and it’s quite easy to navigate, so finding a platform doesn’t take long. Once I had my ticket checked, I was good to go to my compartment.
On an overnight sleeper train from Venice to Rome, known as Intercity Notte, you can book a bed in a 4 berth compartment or choose a 1-2-3 bed sleeper compartment. If you travel alone or as a couple, know that a sleeper compartment can be booked as a 1st class single or 1st class double bed compartment. Booking an entire sleeper is the best option if you’re looking for some privacy and more comfort in a safely locked compartment with a button that you can use to communicate, if necessary, with an attendant. Also, you will have a washbasin and a towel and small amenities kits provided. However, note that there is no private bathroom, so if you need to use the toilet, you’ll have to go to the one located at the end of the corridor.
After spending the previous night in a sleeper with a private bathroom, I have to say that the lack of one on Intercity Notte train operating from Venice to Rome made my journey less comfortable. A sleeper compartment is also not so spacious, so if you are a group of three people in this compartment, it might get a bit cramped. In all compartments there is a power outlet and reading lamp by the bed, and one bottled water is provided. if you’d like some drinks and snacks, there’s a sleeper attendant who can serve them to you. However, there isn’t a car restaurant where you can go and have dinner, so my advice is to make sure you eat in Venice or grab a hot meal before boarding the train.
An overnight train to Rome makes quite a few stops, which can make it a bit difficult to fall asleep. Since I was so tired, this was not a problem for me. The bed was comfortable, and the toilet next morning was still clean, so I could say that the night on the train went well. As I said, don’t expect your compartment to be very spacious or look luxurious, but it is decent and still more comfortable than a couchette. Also, if you get hungry on the train, the only option you have is to get some snacks, which simply might not be enough. The one thing I woke up to craving in the morning was coffee, a strong, warming cup of coffee that brings you back to life – the coffee you won’t find on the train.
I was eager to get off the train and get some breakfast, but first I needed to leave my suitcase. I found a left luggage office, located on platform 24, and since I arrived in Rome a little bit before 7am, it was a perfect timing because the office had just opened an hour earlier.
I knew that I’d be arriving in Rome in the early hours and I was worried whether I’d be able to find a nice place to eat at because I really wanted my first meal of the day to be away from the train station and all the hustle. Luckily, a close friend of mine who lived in Rome some years ago told me to check the “La Licata Bar” in the Monti district that starts with the service at 5:30 in the morning.
The bar was some 10 minutes away from the station, and after a short walk and few “buongiornos” along the way, I found myself in heaven. Amazing coffees, a wide selection of breakfasts (American, Italian, vegan…), and wonderful staff really put this place on my “comeback” list.
For this day trip to Rome I booked a private tour of the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj Gallery. Situated on the Via del Corso, this gallery has one of the richest privately owned art collections and prides itself on housing works by Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio, including the most famous portrait of Pope Innocent X painted by Velasquez in 1650. You can also see two sculptures of the same pope done by Bernini. Some of the oldest parts of the palace date from the 15th century, but the golden age of the palace started with the Doria Pamphilj family, who acquired it in the 18th century. On this tour you really get an insight into the life of Italian aristocracy and one of the most noble families in Rome, whose members still live in the palace today.
After the tour, I took some time to soak it all in while wandering the side streets of Rome and eating Italian ‘gelato’. After getting lost in the maze of narrow streets I found my way to the Spanish Steps, the gathering place of many locals. If you are interested in English romanticism, don’t miss the Keats-Shelley House. This museum is right at the corner of the steps and it contains many works related to the English Romantic poets.
If you, however, prefer to go shopping, the Spanish Steps are a perfect starting point as you’ll find yourself near the shopping area. To make your afternoon even more memorable, take some time to enjoy in a nice meal and some wine in one of the restaurants. Whether you choose a modern restaurant or pick a more traditional, family run dining place, allow yourself to feel Rome – its food, wine, and people who are the living example of why we should do things as the Romans do.
My train for Vienna was leaving at 18:58, so I wanted to get to Roma Termini train station around six. The traffic in Rome can be quite crazy, so make sure you have enough time to make your way back to the station and collect your luggage. The station was even livelier and noisier than that morning, with lots of people bustling around. I found the information that daily over 480,000 passengers arrive and depart from this station, which is why Roma Termini made it to the list of the busiest railway stations in Europe. Therefore, make sure you have enough time before departure and check the screens for the information on a platform number.
Around 18:30 I headed to the platform where the ÖBB Nightjet train operated by the Austrian Federal Railways was due to come in. The journey from Rome to Vienna takes around 14 hours, so I booked a deluxe single compartment to ensure that my night on the ÖBB Nightjet is comfortable and relaxing.
Before boarding the train, I had my ticket and passport checked. When I found the compartment, my deluxe sleeper was in a day mode, with 3 seats folded out and the table set up. After storing my suitcase in the luggage rack that has more than enough space, I took a quick look at a goodie bag. In the bag there were slippers, a towel, ear plugs, a small snack and a bottle of water. On the table I found another bottle of water, fruit drink and a bottle of prosecco. I was also provided a breakfast order form.
All sleeper passengers can tick off 6 items they would like to have for breakfast that are included in the price. Any extra components can be added at the cost of €1,20 each. Refills for all hot beverages are also included. There is no restaurant car on the night train, but there is a menu with limited selection of food, hot drinks and wine. Therefore, you have an option to order some food on the train or buy dinner at Roma Termini station before departure and save it for later. When a sleeper attendant comes, you just need to hand him in the breakfast form. If there is anything else you need during the night, there’s a call button in the cabin which you can use to communicate with an attendant.
An attendant will make one more visit to your cabin later in the evening to make your bed. Actually, the bed is already made, with sheets, a fluffy pillow and duvet, folded up into the wall. If you don’t wish to be disturbed, you can easily do it yourself as you just have to fold it down.
One of the advantages of deluxe compartments is having your own bathroom with a shower, washbasin, and toilet. It is compact, but functional, with hot water, a power socket and air conditioning. And most importantly everything is very clean. If you want to read before going to bed, there are lights above the bed, and if you need to charge your phone, look for a power socket near the compartment door. However, if two or three people travel together, having only one power socket can be a problem. You can use the other one in the bathroom, but still, having more than just one socket in the compartment would be preferred.
The next morning, I was served breakfast that included all the items I’d picked the night before. It’s a light breakfast, but it is fine, and it will set you up until lunch time. My room was turned back from night mode into day mode, so I sat on a pop-out seat next to the table to enjoy my morning coffee and the view from a moving train.
I arrived in Vienna just a little bit before 9am, the perfect time to set out on another 12-hour adventure, before getting again on the ÖBB Nightjet train to my next destination – Berlin. As per standard procedure, the first thing I did when I got off at the Vienna Hauptbahnhof train station, shortly referred to as Vienna Hbf, was to look for a luggage storage. In lockers that come in small, medium, large and extra-large sizes you can leave your bags and be luggage free for the rest of the day.
I decided to kick off my day by indulging myself in some sweets at Café Demel. One of the oldest patisseries in Vienna, once a favorite place of the Viennese aristocrats, today offers a wide range of confectioneries. For those who have a sweet tooth, this place will make it impossible to limit your choice to one cake only. Once all that sugar kicked in, I got the energy boost needed to get me going.
My plan was to visit the Albertina Museum, which was five minutes away from the café. The museum’s permanent exhibition “Monet to Picasso” is definitely worth seeing if you are an art lover. Numerous masterpieces by Picasso, Degas, Monet, Klimt, Kandinsky, and many more, is just one of the reasons why the Albertina Museum was named one of the Seven Urban Wonders of the World in 2018. Also, there are various temporary exhibitions that you should check and the Habsburg State Rooms. Today’s museum building was once a home to the Habsburg family, so the exquisite historic rooms are not to be missed.
After a complete immersion in some wonderful artwork, I was looking forward to my early evening event. I had booked a ticket for the Mozart Ensemble concert starting at 18:00 in the Mozart House. The Mozart House is just a short walk distance from the museum, and there are many restaurants and bars along the way where you can have lunch and taste some local cuisine.
Listening to the Viennese classical music in the house of Mozart, in the room where Mozart himself once played, was a true blast. An hour and a half of pure enjoyment and the music that feeds the soul.
After the concert I was feeling quite relaxed, so I took my time to get back to the train station. Trying to stay in the same mood, I decided to wait in the ÖBB first class lounge.
ÖBB sleeper passengers can access the Austrian Railway lounge on the first floor up to 90 minutes before or after their journey. In the lounge you will have access to Wi-Fi, as well as some snacks, fruit, coffee and other drinks. Closer to the departure time, more people showed up at the lounge. My train to Berlin was leaving at 22:10, so I had some time in the lounge to look back on the perfect day spent in Vienna while enjoying a glass of wine.
Back on the ÖBB sleeper train, once I settled in my compartment, I repeated the same procedure of handing in the breakfast form with selected items to a sleeper attendant. This time I also had a deluxe compartment for myself, because having a private bathroom for me is worth paying a little bit extra. The fact that these compartments sell out fast shows that many people think so too. In case there are no deluxe compartments available, there are other options.
You can book a bed in a 4 or 6 berth compartment with sheets, a blanket and pillow provided. A light breakfast in the morning and a bottle of water in the evening are also included in the price. A more comfortable option is a standard sleeper compartment (single, double or triple) that has its own washbasin, so toiletries and towels are provided to all passengers. You will be given a welcome bag, a form to put together a breakfast of your choice as well as free refills for hot drinks. For travelers from couchettes and standard sleeper compartments there is a communal shower and toilet located at the end of each carriage corridor that can be used.
ÖBB has decided to make the travel experience even more comfortable in the future, so in the upcoming two to three years we’ll be booking tickets for the new generation of the Nightjets. The new trains will offer even greater comfort, new design and free WiFi as a new on-board feature. Having seen on the website what the ÖBB calls the “Nightjets of the future”, I must say that I’m already looking forward to traveling on the next generation trains.
Once comfortably snugged in my bed, it didn’t take long to be sound asleep. The next morning, I arrived in Berlin at 9:50, my last destination before going back to Paris. The Berlin Hauptbahnhof station, shortly called Berlin Hbf, is quite impressive, as from the moment you arrive you get a sneak peek of the city through the glass facade. There are lockers and a left luggage office, so you can choose where you want to store your bags for the day.
My plan was to go to the Museum Island where within a short walking distance you have so many incredible museums in one place, each with a different collection displays in focus. Berlin’s Museum Island is located on Spree Island, in the Mitte district. Given its historical and cultural significance, it was declared for a reason a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999.
You can easily spend a whole day on this island, so getting a Museum pass that gives you access to all the museums is the best option. However, I think that doing it all in one day is impossible. I suggest you pick the one you wish to see the most and just allow yourself to take it all in. I decided to go to the Alte Nationalgalerie, the museum that was the first in the world to purchase Impressionist art. Manet’s "In the Conservatory" and Monet’s "View of Vétheuil” were the first impressionist paintings acquired in 1896. Today the Old National Gallery has a breathtaking selection of sculptural works, as well as Romantic and early Modern pieces.
However, it’s not just the artwork that is stunning; it’s the buildings as well that deserve your attention. In such a small strip of land, these museum buildings with their impressive architecture won’t leave you indifferent.
This visit took most of my day, but I still had some time left after getting food in a local restaurant. I stayed in the Mitte district as I was too tired to walk any further at that point. Still, I wanted the end of my 5-day trip to be special. I reckoned that getting a drink in the highest bar in Berlin could be quite an experience.
Berlin TV Tower turned out to be a good choice, because the panorama views of the city were spectacular, and they had a wide selection of cocktails and drinks. As I was trying to spot Berlin’s sights from a bird’s eye view, I knew that I’d be coming back soon to this city.
My train for Paris was leaving at 20:53 and I was quite excited about spending a night on Trans European Express, operated by Russian Railways (RZD). The train connects Paris with Moscow, covering the route of more than 3000 kilometers. You can board the train anywhere along the route, which means that you can purchase a ticket for any stage of your trip. However, this train operates once a week, so make sure you plan things well in advance. The train from Moscow leaves every Tuesday and arrives to Berlin on Wednesday evening. Since this was the only train leaving once a week, the whole planning for my 5-day trip started with the RZD train. The good news is that you can book your tickets up to 90 days before your journey.
After having my ticket checked, I was taken to my compartment by a sleeper attendant. To spend a night on this train you can book a 1st class 2 berth or 2nd class 4 berth compartment. In the former one, the upper two beds remain folded to the wall. There is a table with a tea service on it, so if you fancy having some tea on the train, you can buy it directly from a sleeper attendant. In each compartment there is a washbasin hidden beneath the table, two power sockets, reading lights and air-conditioning that you can use to adjust the temperature of your compartment. Luggage can be stored under the seats or on overhead racks. Overall, these modern sleeping compartments are quite spacious and comfortable. At the end of the sleeping car you can find two bathrooms; one of them includes a shower, and it looked very clean.
If you wish to have a private bathroom, then you should consider a deluxe sleeper compartment. From the moment you enter this sleeper, you understand why they call it a VIP or “Lux” compartment. Equipped with a sofa that converts to an extra wide (110cm) lower bed, big table and side seat, a deluxe compartment truly gives you a luxurious feel. There are only 4 deluxe compartments, and each has two beds, a DVD-player and plasma screen. Towels, slippers, soap and other amenities will be provided, as well as two bottles of water. For travelers in deluxe compartments a hot breakfast is included in the price and served either in your compartment or the restaurant car. There is also a private bar at the end of the coach, reserved only for passengers traveling in a deluxe sleeping car.
In the restaurant car managed by the Polish caterer WARS you can enjoy in hot, freshly prepared meals. In the morning this is where you get your breakfast too, and it was by far the best breakfast I had on the train in the past five days. Eating an omelet with salad was nice for a change. Of course, my breakfast without coffee wouldn’t be complete. However, if you just wish to get some tea, coffee or snacks, there’s no need to go to the restaurant as you can order them directly from a sleeper attendant.
A comfortable, wide bed was great, and I got a perfect night’s sleep. As the train was approaching the Gare de l'Est, I was thinking about my journey and the grand tour I managed to carry out. I visited five different cities in only five days by simply traveling each night in a different sleeper train. Therefore, booking accommodation in any of the cities wasn’t necessary.
My favorite part about traveling at night was waking up the next day refreshed and relaxed, so my whole day was off to a great start. Each morning you arrive in the center of the place you are traveling to; you leave your suitcase and you’re good to go. No need to spend 4 or 5 hours at the airport for a 2-hour flight, then wait to collect your luggage just to realize that you need to spend another hour or more to get to the center. Most airports are a long way out of town, but with train stations that’s not the case. You get off the train and you can walk directly into the city, heading straight to your points of interest.
Sleeper train service is getting more and more popular among the travelers who look for a different kind of experience. This journey was an incredible rail adventure followed by some great visits to different tourist sites in each city. Who knows, maybe it will inspire you to embark on the same overnight journey or start thinking about some other routes you could explore. No matter what route you choose, one thing is sure – some nights on these ‘hotels on wheels’ will be unforgettable.